How to Read a Clothing Factory Quotation (FOB, CM & Trims Explained)

September 12, 202610 min readBy Essty Garment

A factory quotation is not one number — it is a breakdown, and the breakdown is where the real comparison lives. Two quotes at the same FOB can hide very different fabric, trims, and setup costs. This guide teaches you to read a garment quote like a buyer.

Compare the components, not the total. That is how you avoid a cheap quote that costs more later.

The Components of a Quote

LineWhat it is
FabricMain + lining, per garment; often the biggest line
CM (cut-make)Labour to sew; the factory's margin lives here
TrimsLabels, buttons, zippers, thread, polybag
Print/embroiderySetup + per-unit for embellishment
Setup feePattern/grading; sometimes separate, sometimes in CM

FOB vs CMT vs CM

Tip: ask for fabric, CM, and trims as separate lines. A quote that lumps everything hides where the cost is — and where you can negotiate.

Hidden Costs to Flag

  1. Size run premium — is 100 pcs split across 5 sizes, or 100 of one?
  2. Colour setup — custom dye vs stock colour changes price.
  3. Print/embroidery minimums — setup amortised across how many pieces?
  4. Re-sample fee — rounds beyond the first two charged?
Warning: a quote with no separate setup fee often buries it in CM. Always ask "what is fixed vs per-unit" — it is the only way to compare two factories fairly.

Frequently Asked Questions

FOB or CMT — which is better?

FOB is simplest for most brands (factory handles fabric). CMT saves if you already source fabric. Compare fully-loaded landed cost either way.

Why do two quotes at the same FOB differ?

Different fabric weight, trims, or buried setup. Read the components, not the total.

What should always be separate?

Fabric, CM, trims, and print/embroidery. Separate lines let you negotiate each and compare factories fairly.

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