CMT vs Full-Package Manufacturing: Which Model Fits Your Brand
When you approach a factory, you are really choosing between two business models: CMT (Cut-Make-Trim) and Full-Package (FPP / FOB). The difference is who owns the fabric, the patterns, and the headaches. Pick wrong, and you either pay for control you don't need — or lose control of the one thing that defines your brand.
What CMT Means (Cut-Make-Trim)
In CMT, the factory only does the labor: cut the fabric, make (sew) the garment, and trim (finish, press, pack). You supply everything else — fabric, trims (zippers, buttons, labels), and usually the patterns.
- You buy fabric from a mill and ship it to the factory.
- You own the patterns and grade rules; the factory follows your spec.
- You pay per piece for cutting, sewing, and finishing only.
- You carry the inventory risk on fabric over-runs and defects.
What Full-Package Means (FPP / FOB)
Full-package is the opposite: the factory sources fabric and trims, develops or digitizes the pattern, produces, finishes, and packs — then quotes you one FOB price per piece that includes everything.
- Factory buys fabric from its own mills and trims suppliers.
- Factory handles patterns, grading, and sampling from your tech pack or reference.
- One price covers materials + labor + packing; you pay per piece.
- The factory carries the sourcing and inventory risk — and keeps the markup.
Head-to-Head
| Dimension | CMT (Cut-Make-Trim) | Full-Package (FPP/FOB) |
|---|---|---|
| Unit cost | Lower labor cost, but you carry fabric + trims separately | Higher all-in price, but one predictable number |
| Control | High — you own fabric, patterns, quality inputs | Lower — factory controls sourcing decisions |
| Lead time | Longer (fabric lead time is on you) | Shorter (factory coordinates in parallel) |
| Risk | Fabric over-runs, dead stock, defects are yours | Factory absorbs sourcing risk (for a price) |
| Best for | Established brands with a fabric supplier & technical team | Startups and small brands without sourcing muscle |
| Minimum order | Often higher (mills sell fabric by the roll) | Lower MOQ (factory pools fabric across clients) |
When CMT Wins
- You have an exclusive fabric (custom print, certified organic, premium silk) the factory can't source.
- You want total control over fiber content, hand-feel, and sustainability claims.
- You already have a relationship with a mill and negotiated better prices than the factory can.
- You are producing at volume (3,000+ units) where fabric price differences add up.
When Full-Package Wins
- You are a startup or small brand without a fabric supplier or technical team.
- You want one price, one vendor, one point of contact — and faster time to market.
- Your MOQ is under 500 pieces (mills won't sell you small fabric quantities cheaply).
- You'd rather the factory absorb sourcing and QC risk than manage it yourself.
Cost Example: 200-Piece Maxi Dress
| Item | CMT route (you supply fabric) | Full-package (FOB) |
|---|---|---|
| Fabric (4m/dress @ $2.50/m retail-mill) | $10.00/dress | Included |
| Trims (zipper, labels, thread) | $1.50/dress | Included |
| CMT labor | $6.00/dress | — |
| Factory fabric cost (@ $1.80/m bulk) | — | $7.20/dress |
| Factory trims + labor + margin | — | $6.80/dress |
| Total per dress | $17.50 | $14.00 |
In this example, full-package is cheaper and simpler at 200 pieces, because the factory buys fabric at bulk mill prices you can't reach. CMT only wins once your own mill pricing beats the factory's.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which is better for a new clothing brand?
Almost always full-package. It lowers your MOQ, shortens lead time, gives you one price and one vendor, and lets the factory carry sourcing risk. Move to CMT later once you have volume and a mill relationship.
Can I supply my own fabric in a full-package order?
Yes — this is "CMT-plus" or "customer-supplied fabric full-package." The factory handles trims, patterns, production, and finishing; you only ship fabric. Expect a small coordination charge, but it's common.
Is CMT always cheaper?
No. At low volume, mill minimums and fabric waste make CMT more expensive. CMT is only reliably cheaper when you buy fabric in bulk at prices below what the factory can get.
Which model gives me more IP protection?
CMT keeps patterns and sourcing in your hands, which reduces copy risk. Full-package concentrates more of your design detail at one factory — which is why a bilingual NDA matters either way (see our IP guide).